It’s not as clean as they say it is. Eating at the hawker center requires a conscious effort to avoid looking at the floor. The other day, I saw strips of toilet paper floating in the sinks of a mall bathroom. Occasionally, you will encounter stray cats. I’ve gotten sick twice in my last three weeks here, probably because I forgot to wipe down my chopsticks at an outdoor food court.
But other than that, the city is ridiculously well-maintained. Singapore feels less like a metropolis and more like a garden that happens to have buildings in it. The MRT has cell phone reception. The sidewalks are crack-free. The grass is uniformly green. People line up for church, for the bus, for the ATM, and for a bowl of beef noodles.
I am perennially under-dressed. If I want to work here, I need to learn how to walk in high heels and wear short skirts without accidentally flashing anyone. Back in Taiwan, girls styled their hair like anime characters. Here, everyone’s hair is long, straight, and black, or worn in a gracefully messy ballerina bun.
I knew I’d be dealing with culture shock, but I didn’t expect so many little differences. Not only does traffic travel on the opposite side of the road, but lights switch on and off in the opposite direction. While going down escalators, you stand on the left instead of on the right. When you’re going up the sidewalk, you also stand on the left instead of on the right. I’ve never felt so awkward yielding way to people in my life.
The wildlife sounds are also different. Birds don’t chirp here, they squawk. In New York, we had pigeons; in Taiwan, sparrows. Here, I’m surrounded by black birds with yellow feet and beaks. They’re are louder than you would expect.
I live in a small residential area populated by foreigners and characterized by cafes. The apartment I’m staying at is located directly above a pet store. Every night, I see a dog walker waiting outside of its doors with a squadron of border collies. To the right of the pet store is an ice cream shop that stays open till 1 AM. On most evenings, you’ll find young couples there dressed for the club, even though they’re only eating dessert.
It’s not that weird to eat alone here, especially at the hawker centers. Nobody looks at you, although you don’t need to work hard to get customer service. The Starbucks in Singapore is especially nice. Croissants always come with jam and butter. When you order something to go, they put it in a bag with a stabilizer. How useful would that have been during my breakfasts on the New York subway, had New York’s Starbucks been so accommodating?
On the other hand, you’re not allowed to eat on public transportation. I actually have to drink my second cup of coffee at home now. I don’t know what to do about breakfast. Can I scarf it down while waiting for the bus? Or should I skip it altogether? I never realized how much I ate and drank on the subway until I moved to a place where doing so isn’t allowed.
I’ve started getting used to the Singaporean accent, although people constantly ask about mine. As in, why does this Asian girl talk like she’s from middle America? I suppose this how Brits and Aussies feel when they move abroad, where everyone notes their way of speaking. I don’t mind, though. In fact, I kind of like how my accent serves as an icebreaker.
I’ve befriended a lot of cool people, but I keep forgetting that the English-speaking Asians I meet are not Asian Americans. In talking to them, I’ve learned not to depend so heavily on American pop culture references to make a point. But I’ve also learned that people are people, and as long as you approach them sincerely, they’ll respond in turn despite not always understanding your slang.
Speaking of language, I’m learning to adjust mine. For instance:
line up = queue
subway = MRT
wakao = wahlao
really/very/seriously/totally = quite
center = centre
theater = theatre
“cheers” is the standard email sign-off (in the States, I used “best” or “regards”)
Also, no one says “baller,” “dead ass,” “swag,” “GTL,” “get my drank on,” “I know right,” “bro,” “what up fool,” “chica,” “you fancy huh,” “hipster,” or “shorty”.
More to come….